By Herve This, Pierre Gagnaire
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Additional info for Cooking: The Quintessential Art (California Studies in Food and Culture)
Okakura published several books, but it is chiefly for his Book of Tea (1904) that he is remembered in the West today. ”9 That will answer those who refuse culinary art the status of true art. ”10 DENIS A dreadful opinion! ” That’s strange. What do you think it means? It means you must make dinner for us that evening! One that will be still more extraordinary than the one tonight— JEAN HÉLÈNE Impossible! We’ll see. In any case, it’s a good idea. Let’s get together in two weeks then. At our apartment this time.
I was taught to make pike quenelles with an ordinary fish sauce, or a piece of beef with a béarnaise sauce. In this style of cooking there is only one central element, accompanied by a garnish, which is secondary. The worst example of it, I think, is the slice of wild game terrine served with some sort of jelly on the side. Surely we deserve better than this! Some people are content to perpetuate tradition; others are not. My des- 28 THE BEAUTIFUL IS THE GOOD tiny was to rebel against classical cuisine, to try to change it.
It is also what makes us human, something many people fail to realize. If we wear clothes, it is in order to protect against the cold. If we bathe, it is in order to avoid disease. And if we cook our foods, it is because we know they are contaminated on the outside (and sometimes on the inside: think of the parasites found in pork and horsemeat) by microorganisms that are not always benign. CÉCILE Not always benign, no—but not always malign either. When I was at cooking school I was warned against only the dangers of microorganisms, food contamination, and so on.
Cooking: The Quintessential Art (California Studies in Food and Culture) by Herve This, Pierre Gagnaire